Kitchen Drain Inspection & Diagnosis

• Slow drain / recurring clogs — grease build-up, sags (bellies), intrusions, or offsets.
• Odor from the sink — stagnant water in low spots or a dry trap.
• Gurgling noises — venting issues or downstream partial blockage.

Goal: clear the blockage you saw on camera, clean the pipe wall, and flush out residue so it doesn’t reform in days.

1. Reassemble (loosely) after inspection: If you removed the trap, reassemble with good washers. Hand-tighten first; you’ll snug it later.
2. Cable the line (mechanical first): Feed a ¼–⅜-in hand auger into the wall stub. Rotate while advancing; don’t ram elbows. When resistance softens, you’re chewing through grease or starch. Pull back, wipe the cable, then pass again to smooth the bore.
3. Hot, soapy flush: Fill the sink with very hot water and a small squeeze of regular dish soap. Pull the stopper to send a pressurized slug through the now-open line. The soap lubricates and carries fines downstream.
4. Camera verify: Look again. You want a round, clean opening with no dangling mats and no “shelf” of sludge. If you still see a greasy band, repeat a gentle cable pass and flush once more.
5. Disposal reset and best practices: Run cold water while operating the disposal (it keeps fats firm so the impellers grind them smaller), then finish with a long hot-water rinse to move everything out of the branch.
6. Maintenance (non-emergency): Enzyme/bio cleaners are for prevention, not for tonight’s plug. Use them per label once the line is mechanically clean.

You can clear the clog today, but you’ll need to resupport and re-slope that run or replace the dipped section. Otherwise, debris will settle there again.

• Recurring clogs within days or weeks despite doing a proper mechanical clear and hot flush.
• Standing water on camera you can’t keep the lens above—that’s a belly needing re-slope or replacement.
• Visible offset, cracked fitting, or crushed section on camera.
• Multiple fixtures backing up (kitchen plus laundry or tub), pointing to a downstream/main issue.
• Persistent sewer gas smell or gurgling after the pipe looks clear—likely a vent problem or failed AAV.
• You’re not comfortable opening traps, working around a disposal, or using a cable.

Tip: Show the plumber your camera footage and the distance where you found issues. It shortens the diagnosis and keeps quotes accurate.

Kitchen sinks clog for five predictable reasons: grease film, sticky food scraps, soap/mineral roughness, slope defects, and venting problems. A drain camera turns guesswork into a clear plan by showing the clog’s location, material, and mechanical context (belly, offset, clean but air-starved). 

Use that intel to choose the right fix: clean the trap, cable the exact spot, flush hot and soapy, and correct any slope or venting defect. With a small camera and steady habits—small batches at the disposal, long rinses, starches, and fibers in the trash—you break the cycle of “clog—quick fix—clog again.”

• Self-leveling sewer camera (30–40 m)
• 512 Hz locator + sonde
• Access plugs, gloves, cleaning cloths, floor protection

1. Choose the entry point: under-sink trap or clean-out.
2. Insert and advance: feed the camera gently; self-leveling keeps the horizon true.
3. Record the run: DVR with timestamp & distance; capture stills.
4. Pinpoint with 512 Hz: sweep and mark the surface peak signal.
5. Export proof: save video + stills; add notes & recommendations.

Recommended Kit: 7DVE (30 m self-leveling) + 512 Hz locator set.

See kits →

• Grease build-up: matte deposits narrowing the lumen.
• Sags / bellies: standing water; note start/end distances.
• Intrusions / offsets: sharp ledges or root ingress.